Guinea Pig Care Guide
This is a guide for anyone looking to learn the basics about guinea pig care. It is by no means a complete guide, but enough to give you an overview.
Cage
You'll find cages labeled for guinea pigs in most pet stores. They're usually about 18-inches tall, 2-3 feet wide, and less than 2-feet deep. These are alright for a guinea pig that will be spending most of his or her time out and about, only caged at night. it is not appropriate for housing multiple guinea pigs, nor is it appropriate for housing one permanently. Imagine if you were locked in a bathroom for the rest of your life. While yes, you can survive in there if food and water are given to you, you won't be comfortable, and you will probably go crazy or get sick, not to mention the physical and psychological damage of being cramped in such a small space.
C&C cages are highly recommended, but often have to be ordered online. If you're looking to keep your business local, we've found that the hard plastic kiddie pools that are at least 4-feet across are usually high enough at the edge to keep guinea pigs in.
When it comes to guinea pig cages, there are a few rules. You want solid bottoms, no wire bottoms! Also, length is way better than height. With the exception of C&C style cages (where ramps are low angled and have guard rails, and second level has guard rails), tall cages are virtually useless. Guinea pigs don't climb, and won't jump (except when "popcorning").
C&C cages are highly recommended, but often have to be ordered online. If you're looking to keep your business local, we've found that the hard plastic kiddie pools that are at least 4-feet across are usually high enough at the edge to keep guinea pigs in.
When it comes to guinea pig cages, there are a few rules. You want solid bottoms, no wire bottoms! Also, length is way better than height. With the exception of C&C style cages (where ramps are low angled and have guard rails, and second level has guard rails), tall cages are virtually useless. Guinea pigs don't climb, and won't jump (except when "popcorning").
Food
Guinea pigs, like humans, cannot make their own vitamin C. This means we have to suppliment their diet, or feed them a diet fortified with Vitamin C. Oxbow has a great Cavy Diet, but it's not always available in all pet stores. Kaytee Fortidiet ProHealth is acceptable. You can also use Kaytee Fortidiet ProHealth Rabbit food (no corn), but it does not have Vitamin C, so you'll have to step it up with other supplements!
You can get Vitamin C tablets and treats in most pet stores. Remember - never feed dairy products (no yogurt drops)! We've had guinea pigs who love the Vitamin C tabs, and others who won't touch them. They're a nice thing to have on hand in case your guinea pig ever feels under the weather. If caught early, a boost in Vitamin C can make your piggy feel better. Never use vitamin drops in their water! It makes the water taste bad, discouraging them from drinking, and often contains additional vitamins that can be toxic to guinea pigs!
We offer our guinea pigs carrots, orange slices, orange peels, Clementine's (little oranges), organic pesticide-free clovers and dandelions, organic dried apples, home grown tomatoes, and other odds and ends. Do not feed iceburg lettuce because there is no nutritional value at all (but there's a lot of water content that can cause your piggy to get diarhhea). You can find lists of good and bad guinea pig foods elsewhere online.
Remember, guinea pigs are vegetairans! No meat, no dairy, no exceptions! Avoid foods high in calcium (including alfalfa hay) as it can cause bladder stones and other health problems.
You can get Vitamin C tablets and treats in most pet stores. Remember - never feed dairy products (no yogurt drops)! We've had guinea pigs who love the Vitamin C tabs, and others who won't touch them. They're a nice thing to have on hand in case your guinea pig ever feels under the weather. If caught early, a boost in Vitamin C can make your piggy feel better. Never use vitamin drops in their water! It makes the water taste bad, discouraging them from drinking, and often contains additional vitamins that can be toxic to guinea pigs!
We offer our guinea pigs carrots, orange slices, orange peels, Clementine's (little oranges), organic pesticide-free clovers and dandelions, organic dried apples, home grown tomatoes, and other odds and ends. Do not feed iceburg lettuce because there is no nutritional value at all (but there's a lot of water content that can cause your piggy to get diarhhea). You can find lists of good and bad guinea pig foods elsewhere online.
Remember, guinea pigs are vegetairans! No meat, no dairy, no exceptions! Avoid foods high in calcium (including alfalfa hay) as it can cause bladder stones and other health problems.
Housing
Guinea pigs need somewhere to feel safe. Most pet stores will have a selection of wooden hides, plastic igloos, and plastic tunnels. Some owners prefer to use cardboard boxes because they're easy to come by and disposable. Keep in mind that whatever you offer your guinea pig to hide in may also become a chew-toy. If your guinea pig is a chewer, I'd stongly suggest only using wooden hides. If your guinea pig never chews on anything, plastic will work just fine (just be sure to watch out if he or she starts chewing to remove it right away).
Do not purchase a wheel or a ball for your guinea pig, even if there's a picture of one on the packaging. Guinea pigs rarely use either of these, and exercise should be accomplished by giving them a cage big enough that they can run around. These products can lead to spinal, foot and ankle injuries and the complications that come with that.
Do not purchase a wheel or a ball for your guinea pig, even if there's a picture of one on the packaging. Guinea pigs rarely use either of these, and exercise should be accomplished by giving them a cage big enough that they can run around. These products can lead to spinal, foot and ankle injuries and the complications that come with that.
Bedding
You'll find a lot of mixed information out there about which bedding is best and which to avoid. Rule #1 is to never use cedar! The oils that make it aromatic to us are toxic to small animals. It can actually cause upper respiratory infections, which can lead to pneumonia and death!
Pine is often debated as a bedding. I've found it to work just fine, but others will swear it causes as much damage as cedar. I use pine and have never had an issue with it. If you question it, avoid it. Aspen is slightly more expensive than pine, but usually a better option. You'll still have to clean your cage weekly.
The best bedding? Carefresh. You can buy it in plain grey, bleached white, or multiple colors. When it comes to urine and odor absorption, there is no equal. It's safe if your guinea pig nibbles a bit, and you can either compost or flush it (by the handful). Don't confuse it with the Kaytee version, which is not the same and doesn't work nearly as well.
Shredded paper is questionable. Some inks can be toxic, and there is next to no absorption, so your guinea pig will be sitting in his or her own waste. I'd avoid it, but if you need something for a day or two before you can pick up more bedding, it's better than nothing. Never use newspaper or shiny advertising paper. Plain printer paper works.
Pine is often debated as a bedding. I've found it to work just fine, but others will swear it causes as much damage as cedar. I use pine and have never had an issue with it. If you question it, avoid it. Aspen is slightly more expensive than pine, but usually a better option. You'll still have to clean your cage weekly.
The best bedding? Carefresh. You can buy it in plain grey, bleached white, or multiple colors. When it comes to urine and odor absorption, there is no equal. It's safe if your guinea pig nibbles a bit, and you can either compost or flush it (by the handful). Don't confuse it with the Kaytee version, which is not the same and doesn't work nearly as well.
Shredded paper is questionable. Some inks can be toxic, and there is next to no absorption, so your guinea pig will be sitting in his or her own waste. I'd avoid it, but if you need something for a day or two before you can pick up more bedding, it's better than nothing. Never use newspaper or shiny advertising paper. Plain printer paper works.
Companionship
Guinea pigs are herd animals and really need to be kept in pairs or small groups. Keeping a single guinea pig could be equated to solitary confinement for a human. Many singly-kept guinea pigs will spend their entire lives hiding, or will become obnoxiously noisy as they call for a companion. They can have higher stress levels leading to an increased chance at getting sick, as well as a lower life expectancy.
Keeping two or three same-sex guinea pigs together is a good idea. Never mix genders. If you have two males with a female, your males will start to fight. Keeping males and females together is discouraged unless you've done your research, know your genetics, and are breeding for a goal (not just to make some cute babies).
As with any other living creatures, you do find the oddball occasionally who just doesn't get along well with others. If you took two random people off the street and threw them in an apartment together, maybe they'll get along, maybe they won't. The same is to be said of guinea pigs. Introduce them on neutral territory, expect sniffing and some chasing, but if there's blood involved, break it up immediately and try again another day. Some pigs just don't like each other, some will get along with this companion but not the other, and some pigs are happy to befriend any companion they're introduced to. If you do not currently have any guinea pigs, sibling pairs are a good idea. They already know each other and have worked out a basic hierarchy. Just make sure they're the same gender!
Keeping two or three same-sex guinea pigs together is a good idea. Never mix genders. If you have two males with a female, your males will start to fight. Keeping males and females together is discouraged unless you've done your research, know your genetics, and are breeding for a goal (not just to make some cute babies).
As with any other living creatures, you do find the oddball occasionally who just doesn't get along well with others. If you took two random people off the street and threw them in an apartment together, maybe they'll get along, maybe they won't. The same is to be said of guinea pigs. Introduce them on neutral territory, expect sniffing and some chasing, but if there's blood involved, break it up immediately and try again another day. Some pigs just don't like each other, some will get along with this companion but not the other, and some pigs are happy to befriend any companion they're introduced to. If you do not currently have any guinea pigs, sibling pairs are a good idea. They already know each other and have worked out a basic hierarchy. Just make sure they're the same gender!
Lifespan and Other Info
Guinea pigs usually live 5-8 years. Grooming is a required part of guinea pig care. Nail trims need to be a regular occurance to avoid overgrown claws, and long haired guinea pigs need to be brushed out or trimmed to avoid matting. If your guinea pig gets sick, you'll need to find an exotics veterinarian. They're allergic to some forms of medication, including all forms of penicillin!
If you decide that a guinea pig is not the pet for you, please do not release him or her into the wild! This will not "give them a chance" at all. They will be killed by predators, die from exposure to elements, or from starvation or dehydration. It's an inhumane death, and just because you don't have to watch it, doesn't mean it doesn't happen. There are no-kill rescues out there with guinea pig knowledgeable staff. I do guinea pig rescue too. Never give your guinea pig "free to good home" without a lot of research into who you're dealing with. Remember that free and cheap guinea pigs often become reptile food, or go to homes that cannot afford to properly care for them!
If you decide that a guinea pig is not the pet for you, please do not release him or her into the wild! This will not "give them a chance" at all. They will be killed by predators, die from exposure to elements, or from starvation or dehydration. It's an inhumane death, and just because you don't have to watch it, doesn't mean it doesn't happen. There are no-kill rescues out there with guinea pig knowledgeable staff. I do guinea pig rescue too. Never give your guinea pig "free to good home" without a lot of research into who you're dealing with. Remember that free and cheap guinea pigs often become reptile food, or go to homes that cannot afford to properly care for them!